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HISTORY
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THE LATE 1900'S,
1980'S
- Fashion has always been in a state of constant
evolution,
but in the 80's it all starts moving much faster
- The 'in' look changes much more frequently than previously,
and fashion becomes fiercely
competitive,
- The young designer is the new demi-god
,
- Top models are now called Super Models and become
famous,
- Catwalk shows now become show business
spectaculars
- The 80's see the birth of the Yuppie or young Urban Professional
- The office, corporate activities, business travel, working lunches,
all become a large part of life
- For the upwardly mobile there is a need to
look the part
- Power dressing is the answer
- Large wide padded shoulders, narrow hips, perfectly tailored trouser suits,
and the crisp white shirt,
are all fashion musts for the working girls day,
- For the evening party we see the re-appearance of the
formal evening dress
and the long ball gown.
- The social groups now re-form into many sub-groups
, each with it's own clear,
visible identity
- Including the new rich
, who have the sort of spending power
that enables the
growth of the luxury-goods industries
- The 80's heralded the end of submission to the dictates of fashion,
- From now on active choice
prevails and fashion is led from the street.
- Hand knitting was astoundingly popular in the 1980's
- many designers had hand knits in their collections,
- There were also specialist hand knit
designer collections
- Body Map a company formed in 1982, had a particularly significant influence on knitting
- They designed very creative,
unconventional, unstructured knitwear
- Patricia Roberts designed and developed new stitch techniques for creating texture and pattern
in her innovative handknits,
- Kaffe Fasset's use of
colour was inspirational
- Perhaps one of the most interesting developments, was the availability of
new and unusual yarns
- The 80's found everyone knitting with soft bulky fluffy yarns, tubular ribbon tape,
leather and leather look-alike tape, spray dyed silk ribbon,
yarns with coloured bobbles or knots,
tweed yarns, mohair, alpaca, cashmere
and a variety of cotton yarns.
- There was even a 1/2 inch wide paper knitting ribbon
- Shiny, dull, matt, glossy, shimmering silver and gold,
raffia, gauze, linen,
there was a whole spectrum of new novelty yarns
to enchant the knitter.
- The Vogue Knitting Magazine continued to be produced
- Rowan yarns were now producing books of hand knitting patterns several times a year,
- Hand Knitting News was first published in February 1985,
- In the summer of 1987, The Victoria and Albert Museum
held an Exhibition of knitting
entitled 'Knit one, Purl One'
- In the 1980's hand knitting made the sort of contribution to the Fashion Look,
that has never been seen before or since.
1990'S
- 1999 to 2000 was the decade of
new technology, functionalism and
minimalism
- Fashion has become
universal, now similar styles are worn all over the world
- In general terms the fashion industry
is now split into two extremes
- At one end there are the experimental designers, who explore and develop new trends,
- At the other extreme are the large
multi-national companies who mass
produce garments for global consumsion
- The fashion industry
is now about big business,
- Target marketing
and product promotion
are
becoming as important, if not more important, than product design and styling
- The fashion look
of the 90's is about the body beautiful
- Francois Baudot, a leading fashion and style specialist, argues that much of the interest
in how one looks,
has switched from that of clothes themselves, to the body of the wearer
- In the 90's there is an unpresidented emphasis
on the shape and fitness of the body
- The fashion styles
like the industry itself, vary
from one extreme to the other
- On the one hand we have designers like Gianni Versace, Yohji Yamamoto, stella McCartney
and Donna Karan
designing garments of timeless classical elegance for the grown up lady
- On the other hand there are designers such as Vivienne Westwood,
Rei Kawakubo (comme des Garcons),
Alexander McQueen, and Jean-Paul Gaultier designing
conceptual works of art,
intended to be worn
- Throughout the period the one consistancy is
the colour black
- Black is the colour every woman is wearing, whatever her age or shape,
- Black is worn to the shops, to the office, to the party,
- Each season, in spite of the effort made to introduce a different colour as the 'new black'
Black remains the fashion colour of the decade
- Knitwear, other than piece goods,
such as circular knit jersey for 'T' shirts, sweat shirts etc,
and stretch-knit fabric, such as lycra, is
not fashionable at this time.
- The increasing number of two income families
, means that for most women, there is more money but less time,
- In view of the vast array of cheap
and cheerful imports that are available,
handknitting
is time consuming and relatively
expensive,
- As for the young most of them have no experience of knitting or sewing,
- Neither dressmaking nor knitting is any longer on the school curriculumn,
- For them knitting is something
Grandma does
- The publication 'Vogue knitting'
continues to support those who still enjoy handknitting
- However, the short lived 'Machine knitting News'
ceases publication.
- In style, handknits are still
loose fitting, but not as big and floppy as in the previous decade,
- Armholes and sleeve tops are still
straight or square cut, rather than set in,
- Armholes
are still deep and roomy
- One important knit fashion trend is the combining of textured patterns,
cables, bobbles and other raised stitches, with lace
and-or colour patterns,
- By 1998 shapes start to get
neater and smaller
- By the end of the 90's
a renewed interest in skillful knitting, as compared to quick-knitting,
starts to emerge,
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